Superb cruising in the Southern Dalmations! Note: The following itinerary covers a large area of the Southern Dalmatian cruising ground, and includes a few longer passages. Some legs may be weather dependant.
Themes: Family, Historic/Ruins,
The restaurant in Zaklopatica bay also has private mooring and provides water for its guests. I would also recommend trying the lobster here as the Lastovians are particularly well known for their lobster and Skrpina fish and have their own grilling methods which really make a difference. Depending on how well you are progressing it might be worth going the extra mile to Skrivena Luka.
Skrivena Luka (“The Hidden port”) used to be a pirate hideaway in past times, as the mouth of the bay is almost unnoticeable when sailing along the coast of Lastovo.
This also means that the bay provides exceptional shelter for yachts and still waters.
Although Lastovo is one of the more remote islands in the area. Skrivena Luka can get popular during the peak season. Recommended mooring, especially as the bottom of the bay hides a great restaurant, which is also a great place to buy fresh, live lobster, and the owner is a master of grilling the Skrpina the Lastovian way.
Sail to the pirate hideaway of the Hidden Harbour, Skrivena Luka.
Enjoy fresh lobster and grilled seafood with a twist in either Zaklopatica or Skrivena Luka.
“Triton” Zaklopatica bay – 00 385 20 801 167
Its patron is a wealth of knowledge of both the island and marine life, and serves up some creative yet traditional dishes. Loot out for the capers and the cuttlefish risotto. The restaurant has mooring available with water and electricity supplies for its guests.
The restaurant in Skrivena Luka, a must visit for lobster and the excellent scorpion fish.
In the morning a visit to the hilltop town of Lastovo is a possible recommendation before setting off to Korcula. Depending on the progress you are making you might consider anchoring in the Lumbarda area outside Korcula for a swimstop, or alternatively try stop around the lagoon like are of the Saplun area near Lastovo.
Korcula town is akin to a slower paced Hvar, and is often called the mini Dubrovnik, a charming old town with bags of history, birthplace of Marco Polo, and with many festival traditions throughout the summer.
In as far as restaurants, I would recommend “Marinero” “Adio Mare” or “Mate” for dinner and possibly the rooftop terrace cocktail bar in the turret of one of the bell towers of Korcula.
Alternatively, if you would like to get away from the crowds I would recommend mooring in Palmizana marina on Hell’s islands, just opposite from Hvar town, where you will find a number of interesting bays for swimming and snorkelling as well as a few good restaurants as well.
You can then decide to do a bit of sightseeing around Hvar the morning after. You can also break up your sail to Palmizana by stopping in one of the bays around Scedro Island, where I would recommend mooring in Zavala bay to collect some wine from the “Plenkovic” vineyard.
“Meneghello” Palmizana, St. Klement, Hells Islands
Owned by Dagmar Meneghello, this tavern, is only a 10 minute walk from Palmizana marina and is also an art gallery supporting local artists. One of the more funky places in this part of the world, dinner here promises a fun evening and is very popular with the yachting community.
Phone +385 21 717 270
“Paladini Palace” – near the main piazza, set amongst an orange tree garden, this place has a great grill menu, and is a great setting for a late lunch or early dinner.
“Tonci” Vlaka bay, Hell’s Islands
All the fish served her is caught by the landlord and he particularly proud of his ‘trlje’ (whitebait) and his potatoes (which along with all the other vegetables served here is grown on their own land)
After a leisurely start in Palmizana you have time to go into Hvar for more sightseeing and sail back to Kastela marina in plenty of time.
Final refuelling is possible either in Milna marina or on the N side of Solta in Rogac.
Upon your arrival in Kastela marina you have the option of getting the marina staff to organise a transfer to Trogir for the evening where I would recommend exploring the seafront and having dinner before heading back for your last night on the yacht.
“Celica” is a recommended restaurant in Trogir, run by the Cvetko family, this restaurant is aboard an old wooden sailboat moored in Trogir Harbour. The owner is a legend of the underwater spear fishing world, and him and his son still fish in the area and provide the restaurant with their catch of the day. Definitely worth trying their “Brudet” (Fish stew)